Take pictures with manual mode

Many people have been playing with cameras for years and still only take pictures in automatic mode, while others have gone a step further and basically learned shutter priority and aperture priority. But I didn't dare to use manual mode, canvas prints because I was worried that the exposure parameters would be difficult to grasp and the photos would waste emoticons. As long as you follow these three steps to set the parameters, manual mode photography is actually quite easy.

First of all, you have to figure out what are the advantages of taking a picture in manual mode?

We know that the three elements of exposure are combined to take photos for three purposes: to control the amount of exposure, to control the image quality, and to control the depth of field.

Automatic mode has no disadvantages when it comes to controlling exposure alone, and it is also convenient. However, canvas online in terms of image quality and depth of field control, it is not so smart. For example, if you want a large aperture to blur the background, it may not give you a large aperture when automatically combining parameters. For example, if you want a fast shutter speed to shoot a dynamic object, it may not satisfy you when automatically combining parameters.

Shutter priority and aperture priority have a higher degree of freedom in parameter setting. You can manually set one parameter based on the first condition to be met, and the rest can be combined automatically by the camera (ISO can be specified or automatically by the camera). This allows the operator to optimize the main parameters while also making shooting easier.

But, if you to exposure exposure, acrylic glass prints three major factors of image quality, the influence of depth of field is clear, the hope is the combination of the three parameters optimization combination, so as to achieve ideal effect or you want to effect, the manual mode will help you realize this desire, manual mode is set as long as four steps in this setting, it is very simple also.

Whether it is to take a picture of scenery, or to take a picture of a person, also take a group photo and so on, habitually open the camera or mobile phone, do not hesitate to shoot on the point, just want to have not put the scenery in the picture. I have never seriously considered how to take a better picture without underexposure or overexposure, and the color of the picture is not as pure and bright as that seen by the eye. What is the reason? This is about all the people who love photography and photography, and it directly affects every photo you take.

Professional play photography people to needless to say, but those amateur amateur and the broad masses of melon people must pay attention to your photos taken good, all see these. As a matter of fact, these are the most basic professional knowledge. As long as you learn more and master them, I have this concept in mind. Every time I take a picture, I will pay attention to it and solve a lot of problems perfectly.

What, you ask, is the "dumb model"? Is that the literal definition of "fool"? In fact, we do not misunderstand, is not everyone thought so bad. The so-called "idiot mode" in the photography circle is defined as the purely automatic self-related operation of photographic equipment: automatic metering, automatic aperture adjustment, automatic exposure speed selection, automatic exposure combination adjustment, etc., the photographer only needs to press the shutter, which is just the common name of this pictogram in the circle.

I don't know when, but these pure automatic modes that allow the camera to automatically recognize itself have been developed. The key puzzle is that every SLR camera now also has this function. Specific small make up I steal a lazy, did not read the relevant information, this is not too important, look at it! You should know that this automatic mode, although convenient, is built on the cost of having to sacrifice a lot of important things. It's like buying something: cheap is not good, good is not cheap! It's the same idea. Photos taken in automatic mode can be qualitatively said that this is not the photo you took, but the camera or mobile phone digital program type conditioning! It's the device itself that does all the work, and you're just wasting the shutter (for those of you with SLRS, remember that the number of shutter speeds is limited, but that's enough to waste). Why do you say that? So let's analyze the advantages and disadvantages of automatic mode and why it makes people refuse to take photos in "fool mode". We will tell it from the following aspects, so that you can better understand:

The primary concern of "dumb mode" is auto exposure. Because it is the most ignored by everyone, the concept is the most easily replaced, the most error prone mode, the worst is that all camera equipment is also equipped with this file, but also the default state: open to take photos, this convenience old good! This is always small make up I can not get through a sad! In general, the brightness of the autoexposure is very close to the actual state of the real environment, but for some special scenes or environments with too much light, he is confused (its central brain is so small, maybe smaller than a fish, that it is not intelligent enough to be taken for granted). But even in the range of what he can respond to is certainly not a desired result. Why do you say that? Examples are sunny beaches, sunny noon, the light from the clouds after a rainstorm, snowy fields, brightly lit playgrounds at night, stages for large shows, and so on. With this high-contrast effect in auto-exposure mode, the flooded brain gives you only two answers: overexposed or underexposed. It doesn't know how to control the amount of light coming in, and it won't help you make a better decision. Is it better to add more or less exposure, how to make the picture look more three-dimensional? And it'll tell you: I don't know, you can do it yourself? This is also where automatic exposure is most urinous.

We all know the advantages and disadvantages of automatic exposure, then the question comes, how to control the accuracy of exposure this question then comes? This brings us to another important point - the histogram. First of all, what is a histogram? You have to be clear about this concept. Histogram can be used to accurately determine whether a photo is overexposed or underexposed. Professional photographers can judge whether a photo is properly exposed by histogram. But this histogram cannot be used as the only yardstick for judging the accuracy of exposure, let alone determining the quality of a photo. So how do we read histograms? First of all, the histogram has left and right boundaries, respectively representing the lightest and darkest. The gradient between the two boundaries is the lightest and darkest. However, the histogram consists of three interlaced lines of red, green and blue, which respectively represent the three primary colors of light: red, green and blue. When you read the histogram, you look at how the lines of the three primary colors change information from the lightest to the darkest. If the primary color line has a frame column close to the left and right sides, it usually expresses overflow or insufficient information. If a large number of left border lines are high, it is generally possible to determine that the photo is underexposed. On the contrary, if the right boundary column is high, it can be judged that the photo is overexposed, which is also the most intuitive and readable function of the histogram. Each photographer can then re-shoot or re-post the result with whatever he or she wants.

Then there's the question of autofocus. This is the same thing as automatic exposure and automatic white balance. This is brother Three. Autofocus in normal use is not necessarily completely as you wish, he can only roughly estimate the place you want to focus, but never know what you want to do or want to say, it is completely meng than state, so you need to set adjustment to you to focus on the fuselage, or simply are adjusted manually on himself. This feature is especially applicable to some novice Xiaobai when using a DIGITAL SLR camera, if it is equipped with a lens with auto-focus function, it is relative to where to go, completely depends on the mood, but the digital SLR body has a test exposure focus lock, you can control it, will not let it do whatever it wants. However, there is no such function on the mobile phone. It is often in front of the fast door, when the designated point is clicked on the screen, it changes slightly, or when the main body in motion slides through the screen, its focus will change from side to side, or it will run along with it. Some of them will use the fastest operating proficiency, afraid of good things turn fleeting moments, the general flow of water. There is no question of this kind of fast, in order to quick system is very good, but the response time of the phone but not so fast, it is easy to cause image capture, camera or mobile phone system is not calculating final fixed effect, the majority of the mass into fuzzy piece, fees, a good shot missed, to shoot again is meaningless!

The last one is automatic white balance. A lot of small white will certainly ask, what is white balance, what is he? The idea is simple: make the camera's photos of white objects look as white as the white objects you see with your naked eye. So how do you make the camera's white look similar or equal to the white seen by the naked eye? The first thing you need to know is that all the colors in a digital photo are generated by the sensor inside the camera, which recognizes the three primary colors of the light through the lens. The colors identified on each pixel are combined according to the different frequencies of the three primary colors of the light. Different light sources produce different color tendencies in the recognition of photoreceptors. As a result, the original white tone in the photo will be either a little colder or a little warmer depending on the light source. (This may be a bit too much information for Xiaowai, but that's ok. I'll tell you more about it in a future article.)

The specific theory is already clear to you, how to control the white balance accurately? The question then arises: one is prophase, the other is anaphase. The white balance control in the early stage is to set different color temperatures according to different light source conditions to produce the corresponding effect. It is better to have a white card in your hand. If there is no white card, you should find the whitest white paper or white object around you, and you need to calibrate and measure manually. On the other hand, if you open the RAW format on your camera and take a picture, you don't have to worry about shooting anything, but it's important to note that the RAW format takes up a lot of space per file, so just shoot slowly. Then I go home and use the corresponding software on the computer: PS, LR and so on to adjust the school color in the later period, which is more convenient and more accurate, but it takes time.

Dear friends, through the relevant understanding of these points, I hope to use their own photography equipment to try more. If feel have mastered this few knowledge friends try to throw it away with a "fool" mode (automatic mode) to take pictures again, all changed into use manual mode to shoot, this effect and the quality is not only much more often than "fool" mode (automatic mode) level of the photo, and can let you quickly advanced, large canvas prints become a pro!